Geographical position
This is the story of Forest Green, a hamlet whose origin is vague, but whose charm is in its siting, almost equidistant from Dorking, Guildford and Horsham. The expansive common-land is sheltered on the north by the greensand ridge, running from east to west, with Leith Hill as the apex and Holmbury Hill slightly lower. Early settlers on these hills were known to be Saxon, but the weald was sparsely populated, as deep clay and streams from the hillside rendered it impassible in the winter, while the hard-baked soil of summer was not conductive to settlement.
Some old pictures of Forest Green, courtesy of Di, Carole and Gareth.
The Domesday Book
There is mention in Domesday Book of a Manor, Hoclei, which may have been Gosterwood. Certainly the Manor of Gosterwood is of very early derivation. Following the Normal Conquest and deed without date, a Daniel de Gostrode granted to Maurice de Gostrode and his wife Maud, all his heritage of Gostrode.
The Evelyn Family
When the name changed from Gostrode to Gosterwood seems uncertain, it was probably a gradual emergence over the centuries. It was part of the Manor of Wotton rather than a separate manor in its own right. From 1444 until 1593, families named Bardsey, Wyatt and Hill owned the Manor, then described as a “moated Grange.” In 1593, Richard Hill conveyed to George Evelyn Esq., from whom it descended with the Evelyn Wotton Estate until it was sold by the Evelyns in two parts, the first including the house in about 1922, the second, comprising the fields on the east side and the wood in 1972.
The advent of the Evelyn family was significant: by the end of the 16th Century, George Evelyn was established on the north side of Leith Hill at Wotton House. The Evelyn Estate, still a major land owner today, was formed in 1579, and by 1625 included Forest Green. His son, John Evelyn, the diarist (1620-1706) and his descendants, thus had tenure over all the properties from 1629, be they manor, farm or small dwelling, about 7,000 acres in all.
The Emergence of Forest Green
William Cobbett must have passed through Forest Green. In his well-known book, “Rural Rides,” is an entry for August 8, 1926. “At Ewhurst, which is a very pretty village – I treated my horse to some oats and myself to a rasher of bacon. I had now to come round among the lanes at a couple of miles distanced from the foot of Leith Hill, in order to get to Ockley. From Ewhurst the first three miles was the deepest clay that I ever saw. I was warned of the difficulty of getting along, but was not to be frightened at the sound of clay – It took me, however, a good hour and a half to get along these three miles. Now, mind, this is a real weald, where the clay is bottomless. – At Ockley, I passed the house of a Mr. Steer [Jayes Park], who has a great quantity of hay-land, which is very pretty.”
The emergence of Forest Green as an entity appears in 1580, when a record refers to “Folles Green,” and later in the same document to “Forest,” the modern spelling. Intervening years show Forrest in 1738, back in 1807 as Folles, while scattered about is “Farleyes,” “Ferless,” and “Farleys Green.” Spelling, a controversial matter in modern times, was easy and adaptable and euphonious names could be bandied about. About the middle of the last century the spelling “Forest Green” seems to have been settled. It is interesting to note that there are countless “Greens” and “Forests” in England, and many around Surrey, but there is only one Forest Green.
Buildings and Inn from 15th Century onwards
There is no indication of the hamlet on an old Robert Morley map, circa 1598, although Ewhurst and Okeley, now Ockley, are shown. Between these two villages, approximately seven miles apart, the Oke Brook is shown clearly, rising as several springs on Holmbury Hill and near High Ashes Farm on Leith Hill. It meanders its way down through Forest Green gardens, under small bridges, and, at one time, worked the Mill. It flows into the River North near Okewood Hill, eventually joining the Arun near Slinfold.
The oldest surviving cottage is Tillies Cottage, built in the 15th Century, and still today having no pseudo decoration, a genuine brick and timber home, with a Horsham stone slab roof. Wicklands Farm bears the date 1610 over the fireplace, and at one time housed the bailiff for nearby Forest Green Farm, which was Georgian. This was enlarged in early Victorian times and became tile-hung Forest Green House. The original Horsham stone slab roof was built over, so now it is doubly protected. Cobbetts is reported as dating from the end of the 15th century, but the present house is 100 years later, with further additions in the 17th Century. 16th Century records show Castle Cottage and the farms of Bridgham, Lyfield, Shoes and Wastlands [Mayes Green]. Pratsham was a farm in the possession of the Charman family from 1664 until 1812. During the 17th Century a number of other farms arose, among them Bulcroft, Collins, Ives, Pondhead and Waterlands.
The southeast corner of the actual Green for generations was known as “Tillies and Figgs.” Figg is still a local name, but who was Tillie? Here the first Oak Tree Cottage was built, dated from 18th day of March in the 22nd year of Queen Elizabeth, i.e., 1580. The present Oak Cottage was built in 1869. Extensive meadowland along the south side, where now stands Tillies Farm and Pond Cottage, was known picturesquely as Great Clover Field and Little Clover Field. Tillies Barn, adapted in 1947 to a low modern dwelling, was originally stables, cart shed and harness room, while late Victorian Ivy Cottage as the farmyard.
The Parrot
All villages have an Inn, and the Parrot, on the East side of the Green, has stood there for at least 400 years. In the Records Office at Guildford is an entry “Parrot Inn” stating that,
“in 1712, on the 8th day of February, in the tenth year of the Reign of our Sovereign Lady Anne, an agreement was signed between John Evelyn, Esq., of Wotton, and Walter Miall of Abinger, for a cottage and one rood on Farlyes Green, this being renewed in 1812.” This may have been transference of business, or possibly for an additional cottage. A map of 1840 shows the Parrot with Tea Garden on the opposite side of the road, on the Green. Those were the days of quiet slow-moving traffic. For many years the Surrey Trust Houses were responsible, leasing it privately as a Free House designated as a Cottage Inn, with two tiny bedrooms available for visitors, bed and breakfast being three shillings and sixpence per night in the 1930s.
The Village Shop and Post Office (East of Danesmead, after Beech Cottage), was a place to buy groceries and provisions, local postcards and the Parish Magazine whilst exchanging views. Earlier in the Century, there was a bakery behind the shop. It was run for many years by the Cuthbert family and finally closed in the 1970s. The shop has now been converted to two dwellings, The Old Post House East and West. In the early 1970s Tony McCann continued to run a shop for a few years from the premises of the garage.
Places of Worship
A hundred years ago, the occupants of the scattered homes and cottages bordering the Green or straggling along the Horsham or Ewhurst roads were dependent for Church worship on Okewood, Ewhurst or Ockley. Ecclesiastically it was under the jurisdiction of the Incumbent of Okewood, and to that beautiful old church, uniquely situated in the woods, many Victorian families would think nothing of tramping several miles on Sundays with their children to and from church.
The Institute
At some period about 1870, and possibly prior to that date, there was a small jack-of-all-trades building, known as the Institute. This was on the site of the present unmanned telephone exchange, which adjoins the present churchyard. This Institute was used, among other village activities, for occasional Divine Worship. Evening Services were held there on alternate Wednesdays at 7 p.m. in the winter, 8 p.m. in summer. Later, in 1882, there was an evening service on the 1st Sunday in the month at 7:30 p.m.
The Chapel
It was the Congregationalists who were the first to build a place for regular worship. In 1877, a Chapel was built on “a parcel of waste land” nearly opposite the pond, and continued as such for over 80 years. By all accounts, this Chapel was welcomed and was well patronised; in fact a real building, dedicated to God, and not to be shared with numerous village activities. In this second half of the 19th century, religious feeling was very strong and contentious, many holding strong views on the Church of England, Methodism and Congregationalism.
The Reverend Archibald Augustus Knollys was Vicar of Okewood from 1887 until 1897. Many a time, visiting in his scattered parish, he must have had visions of a permanent place of worship. In 1887, ten years after the building of the Congregational Chapel, land was purchased for the erection of an Anglican Mission Room. The site was at the corner of Tillies Farm, where now stands the telephone kiosk. Dedicated to St. Barnabas, it was of corrugated iron externally, with presumably timber walls inside. A large stove heated the building in winter, and services were held every Sunday. This Mission Room was in a real sense a godsend, the scattered residents attending regularly, with a Curate appointed to assist at this end of the scattered parish.
Holy Trinity Church
Before the building of the present church, there occurred a tragedy of deep concern. Just outside the boundary of the parish, on rising ground with wonderful views, Pratsham
Grange was built for the Hensley family. Charles and Christina Hensley lived there with their two sons and two daughters. In 1892, the elder son, Everard, was fatally shot by his cousin while rabbit shooting. As a lasting memorial to their son, the Hensley decision was to build a church at Forest Green.
The building of a church is far more complicated than that of an ordinary dwelling. Ecclesiastical authorities had to be approached, legal faculties obtained from the Diocese, an architect had to be employed. In all probability there were frustrations and exasperations, and from conception to completion, four years passed. Everard Hensley had been born on Trinity Sunday 1874 hence the reason for the dedication of the church to the Holy Trinity. A small building built of local Surrey brick, and capable of seating 90, its proportions are such that all is in keeping with the surroundings. While entering, one is struck by the simplicity and complete lack of fuss. In the belfry are two manually operated bells, nothing melodious or soul stirring about the tone, but the message reaches across the Green. Colour is introduced by the stained glass in the five East windows, all of which are dedicated to the Hensleys or their cousins the Burneys. On the extreme right are the strangely moving windows for Ernest Charles Everard Hensley, 1874-1892, depicting a youthful face.
The Churchyard, as in all villages, bears names, some forgotten, others still of well-known families in the neighbourhood. Surrounding this peaceful resting-place are fields and countryside, the happy donkeys, grazing at ease.
General parish information can be gleaned from the Parish Magazine, first printed in July 1897, still available today, and representing the now joined parishes of Ockley, Okewood Hill and Forest Green.
Early Transport
The Mail Coach, plying between Dorking and Horsham was for generations the only public transport. The route was via Coldharbour and Leith Hill. A quarter of a mile or so after passing the Parrot, travelling south, the road turned right, passing Bridgham Farm. The track continued via Pondhead to Mayes Green, and it is along this area that a rider wearing 17th or 18th Century clothes, riding a horse with docked tail, has been witnessed recently. Smugglers certainly there were, travelling from the coast, speeding up Leith Hill and environs for their next relay. The steep, narrow winding track, still known as Smugglers Lane, must have witnessed many illegal transactions, so much more romantic than modern drug trafficking at airports.
The village life continued until the mid-19th century and the coming of the railways, but the tempo was till very slow. When the London-Brighton line had been constructed, passing within four miles of Forest Green, private enterprise came to the fore, and a donkey-cart plied between station and village.
School
Schooling was simple; there was no option. A few private houses took a few pupils, but, for the majority, the Church of England School at Okewood supplied all of their needs. Built in 1873, it was run by 3 or 4 staff, with as many as 150 pupils at any one time. No transport was laid on, so pupils walked both ways daily, it being dark in the winter before they reached home. Neither were there school meals, the children took their own sandwiches, and pumped water from the well for their drinks.
Aspects of Community Life, 1880 onwards
During the turn of the century, a Mr. and Mrs. Lawrance Briant from London bought two small cottages, enlarged both ends, and formed Danesmead. Their advent was to prove of untold benefaction to the community. From London, they spent weekends and holidays there with their happy family of boys and girls. Later they moved to Forest Green House, which they came to love very dearly. Their daughters enjoyed every minute of the day, and it is their wonderful memories that provide so much information about life at that time. Among other treasures was a dog’ cemetery, little headstones marking the graves, all now disappeared. The daughters later owned Okebrook and Littlebourne (opposite Forest Green House).
While local children took the beauties of the countryside for granted, these young Briants appreciated it to the full. They would walk to the nearby farm to fetch eggs and butter, welcomed always with a mug of fresh milk. The living room had a large chimney; open to the sky, while the stone yard in front was full of cats and kittens. It was a peaceful setting, reminiscent of Beatrix Potter and her Lake District Farm.
The Forge
On the north side of the Green is the old Smithy. At one time, both Ewhurst and Ockley boasted one, now only this remains. Certainly for 150 years it has functioned here, with its
stove, bellows and anvil. In the days when shire horses were used for farm work, busy indeed was the smithy. Later, most of the shoeing was connected with hunters, pony clubs and private owners, and all sorts and conditions of metals were forged: long fire tongues, fireside companion sets, and repair work. The Forge was rebuilt in the 1990s, and whilst the hand-worked bellows still fan the flames and the hammer still clangs on the anvil, no horses are shod; the work is entirely decorative metal forging.
To commemorate the Silver Jubilee of King George V and Queen Mary, a tree was planted outside, to be the proverbial spreading chestnut. Grafted, for 37 years it showed its spring pink and white blossoms. It eventually died through strangulation, the protecting iron band cutting off the sap. This was replaced in 1973 by members of the Women’s Institute, who planted a pink chestnut.
Wheelwright
At the turn of the Century, before the days of mechanized farm equipment, Alfred Farley was carpenter, wheelwright and craftsman of high repute. In his premises in New Road, his beautiful woodwork found custom far beyond the village. He created farm wagons, metal-rimmed wheels, wheel-barrows, chicken coops, rakes, ladders, fences, seats and gates (that by the brook at Okewood Church being an example of his work).
Closing of the Chapel
The Congregational Chapel, referred to earlier, was closed for worship in the nineteen-fifties. A chapel building is not consecrated; hence it can be put to other uses after its function ceases. After a period of three years, it was converted into an Artist’s Studio, and as such is now designated on modern maps. To those who had loved their Chapel and had worshipped there for many years, this change must have been hard indeed. But it has now become a marvelously creative studio, from true Victorian to a modern open-plan home. Margaret Rey’s most famous work has been the 10ft high Royal Coat of Arms and heraldic emblem used at the Investiture of the Prince of Wales in 1969 at Caernarvon Castle.
The Chapel had no burial ground. The Congregational Union has contributed yearly to the Church of England funds, entitling their members to be buried in consecrated ground. So, the surrounding garden is not desecrating a former place, but has formed a pleasant screen from the road.
Waterfall at the Mill
No story of Forest Green would be complete without reference to the “Mill Boys.” In 1792, the Philological School was founded in London, and was known by that name until 1908,
when it became known as St. Marylebone Grammar School. Early in the 1930s this school acquired the Mill at Forest Green, where, during the summer term, boys could come down, enjoying nature in all her changing moods. Many a boy’s life was enhanced by observations of birds, cattle, the meadows and proximity to natural life.
The boys dug out the swimming pool, damming the adjoining stream (The Oke Brook) where trout were flourishing. In the grounds is to be found a delightfully paved garden, still tended and cared for, bearing two bronze plaques. “This Garden was made in remembrance of those Old Boys of St. Marylebone Grammar School who gave their lives for our freedom, 1939-1945. And their friend and master, Peter Maclean, Captain, Grenadier Guards, who loved this place as they did, and enriched it with his care.” Nearby is a drinking fountain: “In memory of Philip A. Wayne, Headmaster 1924-1954.”
St. Marylebone Grammar School is no longer in existence, and the facilities have been updated and are regularly used by the children of the William Ellis School, Camden.
Newer buildings
Apart from 17th and 18th century farms, a few Victorian and Edwardian buildings have appeared along the Ewhurst and Horsham roads. In 1904, agricultural cottages were needed; four of these and one house were built on arable land to the south of the Green. The road, unmade and likely to remain so, was referred to at The New Road, and as such it is still known. Mill Lane, so obviously named, also has houses. Workers living in New Road used to walk to the Mill on the footpath through Okebrook. During the post World War I era, six Council Houses were erected, Green Bank Cottages, behind the chapel, and at a later date, four more, Downlands, were built beyond the garage and bus depot. The garage has now been demolished for a group of new houses.
Modern Transport
Older residents will remember The Brown Buses, started as a private enterprise by Tom Brady after his demobilization from the 1914-18 war, with his £20 forces gratuity. It became a very successful service for 47 years, plying between Guildford via Holmbury St. Mary, and Horsham via Ewhurst, finally taken over by North Downs Bus Service. Now there are only some weekly shopping buses, and the daily Post Bus, serving the village.
War Damage
The village did not escape all World War II incidents. Not so vulnerable as many areas in the southeast, nevertheless enemy bombers crossed and recrossed the open countryside. On one occasion, a German bomber jettisoned a stick of bombs across the Green, damaging the West window of the church. For this, damage compensation was received from Government sources. Many years later a splinter of bomb was found in a dead tree opposite the Northeast wall of the church. If it weren’t for the tree, the splinter could have shattered the East windows. As it was, the blast considerably damaged the West window and the weathercock on the church, the only other casualty being a cow who lost her tail. There is a small crater on the northern section of the green, and in 1979, an unexploded bomb was found in a field near Ockley. All open countryside was a target for flying bombs and rockets. Many of the bombs were shot down by R.A.F. fighters before reaching London. Holmbury and Leith Hill were pocketed with craters, some of which even now are discernible.
Cricket and Football
As previously mentioned, the cricket green was to the east of the former cross-green route, being transferred to its present site in the early 1920s. The pavilion was donated in May of 1947 by Mr. H.W. Harman. The pitch with its players affords continuous pleasure through the summer months for many visitors. The Green, being 26 acres, also provides plenty of space for football, which has been played in winter seasons passed. How many ghosts, metaphorically, there must be on the Green, the centre of this hamlet. How many dog owners have walked their dogs, and how many visitors have come on sunny weekends to watch village cricket?
Village Life
The 1979 Electoral Register contains approximately 400 names. Very many hamlets have similar backgrounds; lucky are those that maintain their identity of traditional rural living. So many have been swallowed up by progress and unplanned buildings as the aftermath of two world wars, that much village life has disappeared forever. But residents whose roots go back generations mix amicably with the newer population. The 1897 Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria demonstrated this, together with other royal events and anniversaries over the years. 1977 was not behind in its celebrations for the Silver Jubilee of our present Queen. A wrought-iron village sign was erected to commemorate this event.
This pulling together was illustrated in 1971. On that occasion, funds were needed urgently to re-decorate the Holy Trinity Church. The idea of a village fete fired the imagination of all, churchgoers and others. There might be those who only enter church of the traditional baptism, wedding or funeral, but none wanted it in disrepair. Throughout the deepest of winter months, regular meetings were held, meticulous plans made and put into operation, with the always unspoken British doubt-would it rain on July 4th? It was all a glorious success, and well over £1,000 was taken. “Village Days” continue as a well supported annual fundraising event.
As you can see, residents, old and new, have a deep affection for their hamlet. The former, referring to old in residence, may say it is not what it used to be, but what is? It is a happy, friendly place in delightful surrounds, and those who live here are aware of this atmosphere. Long may it remain so.
Adapted from “The Story of Forest Green”, 1980, Kathleen M. Baker, Portcullis Press Ltd.